RSSFuel for the Winter: The soothing flavor of Greek soups
It is interesting to notice the journey of soup in urban versus rural communities, as well as in affluent as opposed to frugal times. In times of prosperity, soup is often a way to prepare our body for the solid food that is about to follow, and that is why it is served in small quantities before the main course. This kind of soup is usually lighter and clear.
During recession, or in traditional communities where food is cold-defying fuel so that the body can go on working, soup is a way for the cook to use leftovers or whatever there is available –just like pies- and feed as many mouths as possible. Soup then becomes heavier, creamier, enhanced with pulses or pasta.
Soup can be an inexpensive, nourishing and flavorful meal, provided that it is made with good –if humble- ingredients, like vegetables, herbs, lean meats, good pasta instead of their over-processed counterparts.
The tendency to prefer soup over other comfort foods is reflected in the market. Ready-made fresh soup has made some large gains (25% according to Nielsen marketing information company) in the past 16 months in Europe, testifying to an increasing need for healthy food, albeit, quickly prepared.
Greeks have a peculiar stance to soup: While it is a favorite in many households, it is offered in few restaurants and the fresh soups one can buy in cartons abroad are nonexistent, as if there isn’t a market for them.
Still, the variety and diversity of Greek soups is impressive, ranging from avgolemono (egg-lemon) based soups, to soups with innards, to bean soups with vegetables, to simple, Lenten soups served during times of fasting.
Avgolemono (egg-lemon) is made with egg yolks and lemon juice mixed with broth. The eggs should not curdle, so the mixture is heated until it thickens but before it boils. Usually, Greeks prefer it with chicken stock, although you can find it with meat or vegetable broth.
Trahanas or xinohondros are based on a fermented mixture of grain and yoghurt or fermented milk, usually consumed as soup. It can be cooked with tomato juice or it can be thinned with milk. In traditional Greek societies it would be served for breakfast too. Housewives used to make large quantities of the tiny pasta in the summer when there was enough sun for it to completely dry out. Then, it would be kept in cloth bags, or pillowcases, for the coming winter.
In Greek markets you will mostly find two kinds of trahanas, the sour variety and the “sweet” one –both savoury, just prepared differently.
Here’s a classic Greek recipe for one of our favourite soups, fasolada. Fasolada is a hearty soup of dry white beans, olive oil, and vegetables. Greeks hold it in high esteem and many consider it to be their “national food”.
Fasolada (white bean soup)
For 4 servings
500 gr. white beans
2 onions, finely chopped
2 carrots peeled and sliced
3 celery sticks and leaves finely chopped
4 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
Preparation
Soak beans overnight. Dispose of the water, wash, rinse, place in pot with fresh water and boil for 10 minutes. Strain and re-boil for 30 minutes.
Add onions, celery, tomatoes and some warm water. Boil until beans are tender and then, add olive oil, salt and pepper. Leave the soup until it becomes as chunky as you want it to.
Serve with olives, feta and smoked herring.
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